Thursday, July 19, 2007

Lisbon

I really like Lisbon a lot, and this post will photographically prove it.
Dad and I got into Lisbon the morning of June 22. We got our car and drove until we finally figured out how to get to the Belém Tower. This tower was built almost 500 years ago and seems to epitomize Manueline architecture: the inclusion of maritime symbols in the sculpting of buildings, along with winding ropes for decoration. The tower was built for military purposes, so here are some cannons. You can go into the various levels of the tower and get some interesting views.
Going east along the Tagus River you'll come to the Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument to the Discoveries). It was constructed about 45 years ago and commemorates all of the people involved in the great Portuguese discoveries of the 15th and 16th centuries. Here's a picture of Camões, the great Portuguese bard who wrote the Lusíadas, an epic poem describing Vasco de Gama's maritime path to India. There are plenty of famous people on the Padrão, like the Wikipedia link notes. There are others that I have no idea who they are. The monument has people on both sides. You can take an elevator to the top of the monument and look over Lisbon, the Monastery of the Jerónimos, the Cristo Rei and the Torre de Belém.
The Mosteiro dos Jerónimos is the epitome of Manueline architecture. Here's a photo of an entrance to the monastery, with a close-up of the sculpture. Portugal became very wealthy in all of world discovery, as you can see from this photo of gold leafing taken inside the chapel of the monastery. The monastery is where the crew of Vasco de Gama spent the night in 1498 before shipping off for India. De Gama's tomb is just inside the entrance, as is Camões'. A stained glass window. In the latter half of the 16th century the Portuguese crown was left with a great problem: there were only 2 Portuguese heirs left, an old Cardinal and a young man named Sebastião. The younger assumed the thrown and wanted to reclaim the glories of the previous royals. So he went on a foolhardy military campaign to Alcácer Quibir in North Africa. No one saw him die, although he was no where to be seen. This has led to Sebastianismo and the great myth that someday he would return, appearing in the middle of a great fog to help Portugal reclaim its grand past. What probably really happened was that the king died and no one would admit to having seen it because you weren't supposed to let the king die and instead sacrifice your life in his protection. So here's his empty tomb.
The monastery is also where I saw Cristiano Ronaldo walking in with a video camera leading his and his entourage's way. It was unexpected as was how silly his hair looked. It was a lot funnier than that photo, I promise. Sorta like this, only goofier on the sides. He's named after Ronald Reagan, you know.
The next morning my dad and I got up and starting a walking tour of Lisbon, starting with the Marquês de Pombal monument. He was essentially Europe's first dictator, ruling with an iron fist after the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755. Continuing our walk toward the Tagus River we came across the monument to the soldiers of WWI. Then we came to the Praça dos Restauradores. After Sebastião died he left no rightful Portuguese heir, and the Cardinal ruled for a while, but was old. So Spain took over. The Portuguese lived as a vassal state of Spain for 60 or 80 years depending on which country you ask. There's a monument to the Restauradores (Restorers) who liberated Portugal.
Walking still, we came to the Praça do Rossio that has some nice fountains, a monument to Pedro IV and a nice view of the elevator next to the roofless Carmelite church. We walked from there down a nice Lisbon street on our way to the elevator. The elevator offers a beautiful view of the city and its orange roofs and the Castle to St. George.
The Carmelite church was destroyed in the earthquake and was never rebuilt, now standing as a reminder of the destruction.
We stumbled onto another square that I think is in the heart of the city's government section. Notice the maritime globe on top of the monument.
We walked to the Praça do Comércio, built by the Marquês de Pombal after the earthquake. There's an archway on the northern end of the plaza. There's also a very green statue in the middle of the plaza, which doesn't have much commerce on a Saturday.
We walked to the Sé, the main cathedral of Lisbon that was built to commemorate the defeat of the Moorish infidels that had occupied the area for over 400 years. It's a pretty straightforward cathedral, with statues of martyrs and stained glass windows and a big organ. In between the cathedral and the cloisters built by Dom Dinis, there are some cool excavations going on showing the various level of the city of Lisbon from the earliest buildings of the Celts to the Roman road and sewer, the Visigoth construction, the Moorish home, garbage dump and business and the Portuguese construction after the reconquest.
After the Sé, we wandered around the Alfama, during a festival, looking for a goofy building. This is when we went into a shop and met a nice woman who owned an Azulejo (Portuguese tile) shop. We asked her if she knew of a Fado restaurant. She happened to be a singer at one that she and her brother had started. So later that night we went to the Coração d'Alfama and heard her sing the traditional Fado music of Lisbon.

It's in the Alfama where I ran into my cousin, Chance.
We walked back and saw the archway lit up very nicely, and continued our walk home, where we ran into Chance again.

The day before we left Iberia, we drove from Madrid to Lisbon and arrived in the early afternoon, so we did some more exploring and stumbled onto another plaza that had a nice view of the St. George Castle. There was another statue to a king, this time dedicated to João I.
Lisbon is famous for its tiled buildings, especially the blue tile.
We walked down to the Praça do Comércio one last time, and I snapped this shot.

I really liked Lisbon a lot, possibly my favorite city of the trip, although Barcelona's a close second. You should all go to Lisbon sometime.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Santiago de Compostela

This city is the end of one of the major Catholic pilgrimages. By the looks of this map, it just might be THE major pilgrimage. Here's a link that describes it better. I have a friend, Becky, who did it last year, and another friend, Rebekka, who will do it at some point in her life. What is it with the Rebecc(kk)as? I'd never thought of it before.
Anyway, the cathedral is the glorious end to a long walk for all of the pilgrims. Many of the pilgrims aren't Catholic, which is interesting. The Camino and the cathedral have a magnetism that is fascinating.
Getting to the cathedral you need to walk thru the streets of Old Santiago, where you are walking the same streets where millions of pilgrims have preceded you. It is really an amazing feeling. We came up to the cathedral from behind and that's when you realize how large it is. We circled around it and came into the square at the entrance of the cathedral where we saw about a dozen, maybe more, pilgrims. One really cool scene was the girl from Japan who saw some of the friends that she had made along the way, a man and woman from France, the were reunited and I got to take the picture of them. Becky had told me about these friendships that develop among fellow pilgrims. The cool thing was to see how happy they were to be together again, even though the only thing they had in common was about 7 English words. I snapped a picture of my friend, Fran, in the square. It was great to hang out with her. The one picture I wish that I had was the group of sextagenarian bicycling pilgrims. They were in spandex.
Galicia (the province where Santiago de Compostela is) happens to be VERY damp, so the cathedral has moss on it. It is awe inspiring, none the less. There's also a statue of St. James looking much the pilgrim.
One of the coolest traditions is the bonking of your head on a statue while steadying your right hand in the grooves in the pillar above it. Looking at how deep the grooves are. That's centuries and centuries of hands and heads. Supposedly you gain luck and the wisdom of the architect by so doing.
This picture is of the all-seeing eye that watches over the cathedral. The crane that you can see is of the gigantic incense thing that takes 8 men to swing across the cathedral. The eye, really, just reminded me of National Treasure, and that's why I took the picture. Or maybe it was foreshadowing National Treasure 2...?
And here's the sepulcher of St. James. This box purportedly houses the bones of St. James. Although, I hear that the bones of the headless person are actually female. It's easier to believe this if you're Mormon and know that James is resurrected.
This huge statue of St. James is directly above the sepulcher. You can go up into the box, but you're not allowed to take pictures inside, so I unfortunately don't have a better picture of the tons of jewels that adorn James' robe. You are allowed to give him a hug, although I was looking at the jewels and had my hands on his shoulders, so it looked much more like I was giving him a massage.
One of the best stories about the cathedral is of this statue that you can see immediately as you enter. It's really rare to see such a happy statue, especially in a cathedral. One time a bishop or cardinal or someone really important like that came in and looked at him then followed his gaze across the way and saw this woman. No big deal, right? Well, truth is that she was once much more, uh, well endowed. The bishop was so mad, that he demanded that her chest immediately be nearly flattened. But as a backlash, the Galicians created this cheese, called Queixo Tetilla. I had some while we were there. It's really good.
Outside of the cathedral, we went for lots of walks. On one of the buildings just across the street from the building behind Fran in the picture that you saw hangs this crown. I think that it looks like an octopus. Fran thought that I was a nerd for so thinking. What do you think?

Saturday, July 7, 2007

Barcelona Pictures

My dad and I spent our Saturday in Barcelona by going on Gaudí pilgrimages. We first went to the Street of Discord, a street where various architects built apartments based on their style, hence the discord. Gaudí's building is on the right and the roof is meant to look like a dragon.
From there we went to the Casa Milà. My friend Rebekka calls his work "undulating" which you can tell from this picture. It also had some goofy statues on it's roof.
In the middle of our Gaudí pilgrimage we found a nice church. It had really cool outer walls.
We made it to the Sagrada Familia--which is called officially in Catalan, Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família--and were immediately blown away. People had said that it was smaller than they had expected it to be. I don't know what they were expecting, but I though it was huge, and it's only going to get bigger. They haven't even really begun the main spire.
The front façade covers the last few days of the Savior's life. These sculptures weren't done by Gaudí, but by another man whose name eludes me right now. The crucifixion is interesting because Christ's head is a book, symbolic of the word or book of life. There's a sculpture of Judas' kiss which has a 4 number by 4 number magic square that adds up in various ways to the number 33. The scenes are juxtaposed, like the burial of the Savior in the sepulcher as well His falling while carrying the cross. There is a statue of the Savior tied to the whipping post with words from the scripture behind him. Another angle shows the Savior at the post with the stylized Alpha and Omega behind His left shoulder. The words of scripture were also placed on the front doors.
The inside is really fascinating. Gaudí was interested in incorporating nature into his architecture. I sometimes felt like I was in a jungle inside, but not totally. But the ceiling was hard to figure out, in that I couldn't completely understand why he wanted to build it that way.
The outside back wall is called the Nativity because it covers the first few years of the Savior's life, before his ministry, like the flight to Egypt as well as the nativity scene, another view with angels watching over, the Magi,
We road the elevator up one of the towers and wandered around up there for a while and I was able to take better shots of the towers and spires, specifically the fruity ones. The picture that I linked to Barcelona was taken from one of the towers. I can't post all of my pictures, so you should just go online and try and find more. it was a great place.

That night we went walking thru the other half of the city's center. We stumbled onto the Catalunyan dancing. Notice their shoes; I think they might be specifically made for the dancing. One person in the group calls out what the next set of moves will be. I put a couple of videos up of the dancing and then embedded them to my blog. I really appreciated and enjoyed the love that these people had for their culture. There were lots of different dancing circles. It was nifty.
This is also the night that I bought my Waterman, mentioned in this entry, with pictures.
The next day we went to the Picasso museum which was meant to show his time in Barcelona and the work it produced as well as show his development as an artist. He was really amazing. Later we walked around trying to catch a cab to Parc Güell--which we never got to. Clark says that it was okay because now I have an excuse to go back. I was sad though because I wanted to see it. But instead we stumbled onto the Monument to Columbus. He returned to Barcelona from his first trip to America. The statue shows him pointing to the New World.
I really like Barcelona and would love to go back anytime.

Catalunyan Dancing

This first video is a panorama of the square where they do the dancing.




This second one is up closer and shows various groups dancing.

Thursday, July 5, 2007

Last full day in Europe was a nice Lisbon day

My dad and I left Madrid at around 8am and caught some traffic, but not much. I actually really enjoy driving around Europe. I think my dad is a step away from heart attacks at times, though. Anyway, it was clear sailing to Lisbon and took us 2 or 3 hours less than we thought it would, so we had a nice afternoon tooling around the city and seeing some things that we didn't get to see the first time around. It was really nice. I like the sun and the heat, which was plentiful today in Lisbon. Poor Clark's got a cold, so we avoided the sun as much as possible. Here's to hoping that he'll feel better tomorrow for our flights. The travel time for me we'll be about 19 hours including layovers and just a little bit more for Clark. Blech. It'll be good to get back to Provo. Wow, who thought I'd type that. Well, I could also stay in Lisbon for a while, too. Sometimes I feel like we've barely scratched the surface.
Well, come Saturday or Sunday I'll start posting pictures and videos. Hope you all have a great weekend. I just might see some of you soon.
Tchau tchau from BEATIFUL Lisbon.

Wednesday, July 4, 2007

Last day in Madrid

Oh, and Happy 4th of July to all you Americans out there. I forgot to wish the Canadians a Happy Canada day on the 1st. Sorry: Happy Canada Day.
We went to the Reina Sofia this morning, which is the modern art museum. It has Guernica, which I've previously mentioned. I knew it was a large painting, but I didn't realize just hwo large it was. It was huge: 11ft tall and 23ft wide. And it is very powerful. The pain that Picasso transmitted is palpable. I'm reading a book now by Vonnegut, Slaughterhouse-Five, which I'm not very far into, but enough. It's interesting, but I'll have to finish it before I give it a thumbs-up or not. Anyway, the narrator, Billy Pilgrim, tells his son to never take joy in a massacre, to never laugh at it. Today, looking at Guernica and all of Picasso's studies that he did painting the finish work (which the museum has a lot of) made me repulsed. On left side of the painting is a woman crying over her dead baby. I almost started to cry. I fought back the lump in my throat. It was much more moving than I expected it to be.

We spent the afternoon walking around the city's center. We went to the Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace, the city's cathedral--which is new and very cool and you can go on a guided tour if you call a phone number and listen to the tour guide via a ¡phone message!--and various other things.
Perhaps the niftiest thing of the day was when we bought the treats from the nuns. Now you may think, "Why on earth is that so nifty?" Easy, we never saw the nuns. We went to the door and pushed a button that was for "dulces" and patiently waited for the nuns to respond. Once she did, Clark said that he wanted to buy some dulces and she gave us directions (¡Torno! ¡y otra torno!) and opened the door. We walked in and made our way to the place where the candies and cookies are sold. There's a list by a Lazy Susan. You say hello and the nun talks from behind the wall. You'll never see her because part of their oath is to stay hidden or not show their faces or something. Anyway, Dad put the money on the Lazy Susan and the nun sent around the cookies and the change. It was great fun. Who knew that buying cookies could be such a trip. The nun was so cute, too. Very nice. Such a happy voice. I think that this could be a great thing for Gretchen. She could cook and study all day and she wouldn't have to see people. She'd have to become Catholic though...
All told, today was another great day.

Andy and foxyj: ahhh, the peruvian music. I'm glad that it brought back such great memories. it's really crazy. I hear the some stuff everywhere. It kills me when they dress like Sioux, though. And, yes, Emily, I'm hearing the same stuff that you heard in Peru, I'm sure. There's nothing like catering to Americans.

Thx for the heads-up about the yogurt, Sarah. I'll be leaving Europe in a couple of days, though, so if I become lactose intolerant, it'll be for my first bit in the States, so who cares? And, yes, the Azucarado is the best. But I really have an affinity for strawberry and straweberry-banana. Yum.

BYE!!

Tuesday, July 3, 2007

Today was the Prado and a detour

Dad and I got up this morning and went right to the Prado. Oh, I only had 3 yogurts this morning. Does anyone know if eating excessive amounts of yogurt and restricting your diet mainly to one flavor does anything bad to you?
But before we got to the Prado, in fact as soon as we left the hotel we heard a girl screaming argumentatively. She was saying a lot of words that I won't repeat. She was walking with another American about her age (I'm assuming 18 years because she yelled something about that) and they were having quite the lovers spat: "Is that all I am to you, an embarassment?" It was pretty exciting--so exciting, in fact, that if it weren't for the agony on the girl's face I would have claimed it was staged.
Anyway, we got to the Prado and spent the next, I don't know, 6 hours there. It's an amazing museum. The painting Las Meninas was really cool. There was so much stuff, that I can't write about all of it. But the Goya was powerful, especially his later stuff. I didn't like the Saturno painting. Really gory. This painting was really powerful. The hotel that we're staying at is just around the corner from where that massacre took place. There was also a lot of El Greco. This nice thing about El Greco's painting is that it's very thinning. Now, Rubens, on the other hand, is, uhhh, voluptuous. So much so, that a word has been coined: Rubenesque.
The straight-shot road back to our hotel was blocked, so we got to take a detour thru the center of the town. It's a big city like any other big, old European city: statues, fountains, beautiful architecture and tons of people. It was pretty spiffy.

So sometimes Europe is weird. Something that we've seen in every city is a group of musicians dressed as though they were Sioux or Lakota but playing Incan music. Well, they play traditional Incan instruments, sometimes an electric piano, and play things like Simon and Garfunkel. Can anyone explain this to me? Oh, now the musician outside is playing My Heart Will Go On. Bring back the Simon and Garfunkel, I say.

Also, I can't think of mussels as snails. I accidentally saw the inside of one of the mussels. It was all hairy.
Gas right now in Spain hovers around 1.22 euros a liter. It was a little bit more in Portugal. All in all, I'm glad I'm not the one paying. I'm sure that Clark would be happy to read that.
I stood in front of the cheese aisle today and stared at it, so sad that in a few days it would be much more expensive, smaller and in the States. I did the same thing in front of the yogurt aisle. Sarah and I have a plan to intimidate Wisconsin into getting us better yogurt. If anyone wants to join, you're more than welcome.
Tomorrow (Wednesday) is our last real day in Europe since we drive on Thursday. I don't know when we'll get in on Thursday night and we fly in the morning on Friday. I'm hoping that we'll at least be able to meander a little on Thursday night. Lisbon is such a great city.
Have a great day, all. I'm out.